After a spectacularly boring bus trip, I arrived at Te Anau. The landscape gradually sees less of mountains, and more of softer hills.

Apart from catching my breath and getting a break from travelling, Te Anau has little to offer the casual visitor. This is the starting point for the famous Kepler track (for hikers that is), but this takes several days to complete.

One thing that is possible is to visit a glowworms cave. Just as in Waitomo, also here a spectacular boat ride inside a pitch dark cave is on offer. Pitch black, that is, apart from the glow of the tens of thousands of larvae of Arachnocampa Luminosa. Thus it is not a worm, but most closely, in its adult stage, a fungus gnat.

The cave is impressive in itself, because through it rushes a roaring stream, including a waterfall of a couple of metres. It is almost impossible to hear what the guide screams, and we are left to interpret his signs. The cave is young, ca. 12000 yrs or so, so no dripstone formations yet, just the magnificent surfaces carved out by the slightly acidic stream.

Sadly, no photography is allowed. They probably want to sell postcards, but also, seriously, flashes from cameras would stop the glow from the larvae.

Two nights is quite sufficient, and soon I am on my way to Invercargill. The landscape completely turns into flat land.

As I arrive in Invercargill, the bus, with me as only passenger, as I have already written about, enters the small but widespread city. Tay Street, where my motel is situated, is absolutely straight for miles, and is an endless display of motels. Mine is named Balmoral Lodge Motel, and features the first two level accomodation. The bus driver drops me at the motel, before driving to fix something with the windscreen. He did his best to guide me through the noteworthy items on the way here.

The motel is so far the most luxurious accomodation I have had. Kitchen, bathroom, and dining room downstairs, and the beds upstairs. I chose the double. There is an extra bed downstairs also, but it’s by the window facing the parking area, so I guess it’s a spare. Could it be the competition among all the motels?

One funny thing I noticed is how short most of the names of the streets are. Three of four letters: Tay, Dee, Fern, … Invercargill has quite a lot of flavour left from the initial settlers’ days. The streets with the covered sidewalks and the facades are reminiscent of a typical small town in a western movie.

It is sunny, but cold and windy, and the streets are virtually abandoned. Shopping, anyone? Apparently not. The most popular pubs and restaurants do get filled up, but many look deserted. Not that there are many of them to start with.

Some heavier items I mail home. It may take some time, but getting rid of the weight is rewarding.

The fligth back to Auckland is quick. Almost no waiting time in Christchurch, where I change from the ATR 72-500 turboprop to a Boeing 737-300. To my delight, I discover that Air New Zealand is part of Star Alliance, and I get to register the miles.

Arriving in Auckland is straightforward. But - it’s raining cats and dogs! I get completely soaked walking from the bus to the Bavaria B&B in Mt Eden. Well, it saved me $50 compared to the taxi…

But it’s a welcome return. I get to do the last mailing, laundry, and souvenir hunting.

Today, it is very sunny again, warm, and the village of Parnell is a beautiful new discovery in Auckland. In the souvenir catch there are some things made from the original New Zealand tree, the Kauri. All Kauri items are made from old sources, e.g. old floors. The most spectacular source is the swamp Kauri, which preserves the trunks of the trees perfectly, including the bark, and can be 30000-45000 yrs old! No living Kauri trees are used as a source. The wood is very smooth and even, since there are no knot holes. The tree gradually sheds its lower branches as it grows, so the trunk is very straight, and the wood very dense. No wonder they were chopped down when the Europeans arrived.

I’ll see if there will be more summing up before I leave. I am not looking forward to my flights tomorrow.